Akamas Peninsula

The Akamas Peninsula is the wild north-western tip of Cyprus and one of the island's most beautiful places: clear-water bays, rocky headlands, turtle-nesting beaches and hills threaded with walking trails, with no high-rise resorts in sight. Come for a swim in the Blue Lagoon, the legend of the Baths of Aphrodite, a long countryside lunch or a day exploring the villages above the coast.

The key to a good visit is choosing the right side of the peninsula. Latchi and the Baths of Aphrodite are the gateway to the northern coast; Peyia and Agios Georgios are the usual starting points for the western side and Lara; and inland villages such as Neo Chorio, Ineia and Droushia add walking, museums and village tavernas. Distances on a map can be misleading: an unsurfaced track through the Akamas is a very different drive from a main road around it.

Choosing your base

The northern side: Latchi, Polis and Argaka

Latchi is the most practical base for boat trips to the Blue Lagoon, with a harbour full of fish tavernas. Polis has a pretty town centre, shops and services, and Argaka, further along Chrysochou Bay, is quieter still. The hill village of Neo Chorio sits right on the edge of the Akamas landscape and suits walkers who enjoy village evenings.

The western side: Peyia, Sea Caves and Coral Bay

Peyia, Sea Caves and Coral Bay are well placed for the western approach, for Lara and for countryside restaurants, and combine the Akamas with the beaches and restaurants of the Paphos coast. Inland, the wine village of Kathikas sits between the two sides.

How long to allow

Allow at least two days to enjoy both coasts without rushing. A Blue Lagoon boat trip and the Baths of Aphrodite make one day; Lara and a western-side lunch make another. Add a third for a longer walk or a tour of the inland villages.

The Blue Lagoon

The Blue Lagoon is a sheltered bay on the northern Akamas coast, famous for water that shifts from pale turquoise to deep blue. It is a place to swim and snorkel from a boat rather than a beach: there are no sunbeds, showers or cafés, so bring what you need.

Getting there by boat

The easiest way to reach the lagoon is by boat from Latchi. Choose a shared cruise, a private boat with a skipper, or a self-drive boat. A shared cruise is the simplest option, with a planned swimming stop; a private or self-drive boat lets you set your own pace and explore other bays along the coast.

Before booking, ask how long the boat stays at the lagoon, whether there is shade and a toilet on board, and how you get in and out of the water. Families should check that there are lifejackets in children's sizes. Ask whether food, drinks and transfers are included.

Boat operators in Latchi include:

• Latchi Watersports Centre: self-drive boats and private charters. Tel: +357 26 322095. latchiwatersportscentre.com
• Latchi Pleasure Boats: boats with or without a captain. latchipleasureboats.com
• Blue Diamond Latchi: cruises and private boat hire, with a captain if you prefer. Tel: +357 97 754144. bluediamondlatchi.com

If you hire a self-drive boat, check the licence and age requirements, and make sure you are given a full briefing on the area you may cover, anchoring and what to do in an emergency. Fuel is often charged separately, so ask for a full price.

Swimming at the lagoon

On a calm day the water is wonderfully clear, perfect for a leisurely swim and snorkelling. Enter the water where the skipper suggests, keep clear of other boats, and remember that the sea is deeper than it looks. Take a mask to see the seabed, a buoyancy aid for less confident swimmers, and keep a close eye on children. Bring a towel, sun protection and drinking water.

The lagoon is busy in high summer. An early or late departure is usually quieter.

Reaching the lagoon by land

The lagoon can also be reached along unsurfaced tracks, but these are best left to guided jeep safaris or experienced drivers in suitable vehicles. Standard hire cars are not insured on these tracks, and not every track is open. For most visitors a boat is the easier and more enjoyable way to arrive.

The Baths of Aphrodite

Just beyond Latchi, the Baths of Aphrodite is a shaded natural grotto and pool where, according to legend, the goddess bathed and met her lover Adonis. Fig branches and greenery give the small pool its magical atmosphere. It is a short, easy visit along a botanical path rather than an ancient site, and swimming in the pool is not allowed.

The Baths are also the starting point for the Aphrodite and Adonis nature trails (see below). There is a restaurant and café by the car park, with views over the bay.

Lara Bay and the turtle beaches

On the western side of the peninsula, Lara is a stretch of wild, undeveloped bays with very few buildings or facilities. It is one of the most important nesting grounds in the Mediterranean for green and loggerhead turtles. The name covers more than one bay, including the southern bay and the northern bay known as Ammoudi, where there is a turtle-protection information point.

Swimming at Lara

You can swim at Lara on a calm day, but this is an exposed natural coast with no lifeguards, toilets or refreshments, and getting into the water can be tricky. If the sea looks rough, enjoy the scenery and swim somewhere more sheltered.

Protecting the turtles

Lara and Toxeftra are a protected area. From 1 June to 30 September, umbrellas, sunbeds, tents and caravans are not allowed, and visitors must leave the beach from one hour before sunset until one hour after sunrise. Keep well away from marked nests and their protective cages, never disturb nesting turtles, eggs or hatchlings, and don't shine lights or use flash photography near wildlife.

Turtles are wild animals, so a sighting is never guaranteed. For a closer look at their lives, visit the Inia–Lara Turtle Museum in the village of Ineia, with displays and interactive exhibits on sea turtles and the work to protect them.

Exploring by 4×4, jeep safari, buggy or quad

There are three ways to explore the Akamas tracks: hire a 4×4 and drive yourself, join a guided jeep safari, or hire a buggy or quad. Whichever you choose, stay on permitted tracks, never drive onto the nesting beaches, and check which routes are open, as tracks in the Akamas National Forest Park can close.

Self-drive 4×4, buggy and quad hire

Before you book, tell the hire company where you want to go and ask them to mark approved routes on a map. Check what the insurance covers (tyres and the underside of the vehicle are often excluded), the deposit, the licence and age requirements, and the seats and child restraints. Photograph the vehicle when you collect it, and turn back if a track looks beyond your experience.

Hire companies around Latchi and Polis include:

• STS Motofun, Latchi: Suzuki Jimny 4×4s, buggies and quads. Akamantos Avenue, Court Block 4, Latchi. Tel: +357 99 911528. stsmotofun.com
• L. Tsaggaras 79 Moto Rentals: quads, two- and four-seater buggies and guided safaris, on the Polis–Latchi road. Tel: +357 99 153524. latchiquadsandbuggies.com
• PR Rentals: quads, buggies, motorbikes, electric bikes and safaris, with delivery and collection. Tel: +357 99 825414. prrentalsltd.com

Guided jeep safaris

A guided safari lets you see the rugged interior without driving or navigating yourself, and many combine viewpoints, short walks and a swim. Compare how long you spend in the vehicle, the group size and the stops included. Adventure Tours Direct offers Akamas jeep safaris and combined land-and-sea trips (adventuretours.com.cy).

Walking trails

Aphrodite and Adonis trails

Two waymarked circular trails start at the Baths of Aphrodite, each about 7.5 km with steady climbs and descents. Allow three to four hours, plus time for stops. The Aphrodite trail passes the ruins of Pyrgos tis Rigainas, the "Queen's Tower", and climbs to sweeping views over Chrysochou Bay and the coast. Wear shoes with good grip and carry plenty of water, as you can't rely on finding drinking water along the way. See the Department of Forests trail leaflet.

Smigies and shorter walks

The Smigies picnic site above Neo Chorio is the start of shorter nature trails through pine forest, with views to both coasts of the peninsula. They suit mixed groups who would rather not commit to a long climb.

In summer, start early and keep walks short; spring and autumn are the best seasons for walking in the Akamas.

Avakas Gorge

Avakas is a spectacular limestone gorge on the western side of the peninsula, but it is currently closed to visitors. Check the official trail status for reopening news before planning a visit.

Where to eat

Plan meals around the side of the Akamas you are exploring, and carry water and snacks for remote sections. Many places close or shorten their hours outside summer, so check before making a special journey.

Viklari – The Last Castle

Viklari (also written Viglari) is a much-loved countryside restaurant near the western approach to the Akamas, with hillside views and a rustic, vine-covered terrace. The simple menu centres on souvla, spit-roasted pork and chicken served with salad and potatoes. Book ahead, ask about vegetarian options, and check the best route, as the final stretch of road is rough. Tel: +357 26 991088.

Baths of Aphrodite Tourist Pavilion

The restaurant and café beside the Baths of Aphrodite is a convenient stop for a drink or a meal before or after a visit, with views across the bay.

Yiangos and Peter Fish Tavern, Latchi

A long-established taverna at the entrance to Latchi harbour, known for fresh fish and seafood, and ideal after a boat trip. Ask about the day's catch and whether fish is priced by portion or by weight; a fish meze is a full shared meal in itself. latchihotel.com

Cafés and village stops

For breakfast or a light lunch in Polis, Home Cafe at the Akamas Gate complex serves homemade dishes, coffee and cakes (tel: +357 96 449646). In Argaka, Pas To Kima serves Mediterranean cooking with a Cypriot emphasis by the sea, with Greek nights through the season (tel: +357 97 717607). On a village day, stop for lunch in Neo Chorio, Ineia or Droushia.

The Akamas villages and museums

The hill villages on the southern edge of the peninsula make a rewarding day out, with views over both coasts and several small museums:

• Inia–Lara Turtle Museum, Ineia: the life of sea turtles and the work to protect them.
• Akamas Rural Life and Traditions Museum, Droushia: village life and local crafts.
• Geology and Palaeontology Centre, Pano Arodes.
• Avifauna and Flora Visitor Centre, Kathikas.

Choose two or three and leave time for lunch in a village taverna. See the Akamas museums for details, and check opening times before you go.

When to visit and what to bring

Spring is the best time for walking and wild flowers. Summer is perfect for boat trips and swimming, with land outings kept to the cooler hours. Autumn combines a warm sea with comfortable walking. In winter, enjoy the villages and shorter walks, and check that boats are running.

For a typical day, bring drinking water, sun protection, shoes suited to your plans, swimwear, a towel, a charged phone with an offline map, and a light layer for the boat. Guests with limited mobility should ask in advance about boat boarding, ladders, steps and uneven paths.

Three days in the Akamas

• Day one, the northern coast: a morning boat trip from Latchi to the Blue Lagoon, a harbour lunch, then the Baths of Aphrodite.
• Day two, the western coast: Lara in daylight, a swim if the sea is calm, and a long lunch at Viklari.
• Day three, trails or villages: the Aphrodite or Adonis trail on a cool morning, or a tour of the Ineia and Droushia museums with lunch in a village taverna.

The most enjoyable Akamas holiday leaves time to appreciate each place. Choose a relaxed pace, use the right transport for each route and let the weather shape the day: the reward is a side of Cyprus few visitors see, with its wild coast, wildlife, legends and village hospitality.